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Well, I don't have a great deal of resaw experience but frankly I had hoped for better.

Resawed two wenge back billets, a total of 14 cuts on a brand new outta the box blade, and it was so dull already that it took main brute force to shove the side billets through. Even coming off the saw ar .195, there was so much variation in the wandering cut the sides didn't clean up til .080.

I believe I have the saw set up as well as it can be set up, even built another fresh fence to see if that would help, but no luck.

I want to believe I'm doing something wrong so that I can change and do it right, but I'm starting to think its the tool, not the other tool...

I use the woodmaster CT. It cuts well and last for a long time. I have been able to cut a board at .145 and sand it smooth at .125- thats with both sides fresh off the saw.

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Just received a new woodmaster ct in the mail.
When I get it on and have a chance to slice some sets I will report on my experience.
I have had good results with the tri-master in the past.

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I can't think of anything good to say about Laguna. Their 18" bandsaw and customer service has been just awful.

Well, I'm pretty impressed with the saw itself. And really, the only thing that fits the footprint I have to work with, except for one rikon saw. Haven't had bad customer service. Just the blade names me skritch me head. Good thing I have 4 of them now...

Hmmm...Resaw Jester? Resaw Squire? Or truth-in-advertising...Resaw Rookie? Resaw-Me-Not?

We have two hanging in the rafters collecting dust, and tagged as 'dead blade, walking (left and right of cut line)'

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Well Ed I totally agree with Chris on this one. Over the years I have tried a great number of blades and found the Lenox Woodmaster CT to be the best. The worst blade of all is the RE-saw King. Lots of hype but very poor performance. I have had that blade fail on the very first cut on bloodwood. With a good setup and a good blade you shouldn't need any sideways force other than minimum pressure to get a straight uniform thickness cut. It took a while to convince me that it wasn't the saw but the blades. So do yourself a favor and hang those re-saw Kings on the shelf and the Woodmaster CT

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I rethought the bandsaw in general. I now use my table saw. I do the first cut, flip it end for end, do the second cut, and then the final cut is to remove the left over middle facet with the bandsaw. At that point, the bandsaw cant really wander because its following the table saw cuts.

[quote="Nils"]I rethought the bandsaw in general. I now use my table saw. I do the first cut, flip it end for end, do the second cut, and then the final cut is to remove the left over middle facet with the bandsaw. At that point, the bandsaw cant really wander because its following the table saw cuts.

That is pretty much what I do, too, when I have wide stock to cut. Even though my bandsaw is really well set up, screw ups are far more wasteful than a little extra taken off by cutting successfully.

BTW, I use a General 15", the one with a cast iron frame, and I use a 1/2" 3 tpi blade instead of those fancy pants blades. It works very well, so well that I have never felt a need for designer blades.

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[quote="Nils"]I rethought the bandsaw in general. I now use my table saw. I do the first cut, flip it end for end, do the second cut, and then the final cut is to remove the left over middle facet with the bandsaw. At that point, the bandsaw cant really wander because its following the table saw cuts.

I use the table saw method, as well, except I don't have a bandsaw.

Alex

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Using a table saw is wastful
I agree with RC it isn't the saw it is the blase. I tried the Rewas and went to the Lennox. I also upgraded to ceramic guides. I will never go back. I did use a table saw early in my career and when you are resawing a high end board losing a slice is money turned to dust.

A good tool is an investment A cheap tool is a cost.

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I will definitely be trying the Lennox. I absolutely love the saw itself. I use it for pretty much all straight cuts and the tablesaw is now fitted with a dado for truss rod slots and x brace lap joints. It's a shame I spent a grand on bunk blades, but live and learn...

Funny I re-thought the table saw quite a few years ago. I use the band saw for most of my ripping now.
It is way safer and much faster than a table saw. Good luck with the Lenox blades. Let me know if you need any help. Good setup is the key.

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

Thanks!

Yes...the Resaw King can be a real ich....the Woodmaster doenst care about anything....just doing it´s job.
The RK can provide amazing results, but your saw needs to be flawless adjusted and maintained.
Quite often an automatic infeed makes the difference, otherwise the feedpressure and speed varies too much and overheats and dulls the blade fast.
I also prefer the Woodmaster, just ordered some new ones, was also considering trying the RK again, but I first send it back to the manufacturer in
Germany, they will resharpen it and have a look at it.

The performance of my RK was also reallly poor in terms on long-lasting sharpness....

Cheers, Alex

I was wondering if I was overheating things. The saw is a brand new 14SUV with a 3hp motor. Others have had good luck using it. Next time I have to resaw anything I will redo the setup from the ground up again. Not sure how much better I can get it. I would love an auto feed.

The RK blades simply don't have the hardness and toughness to retain an edge in woods that are really hard or abrasive. While they can turn dull easily in most woods, they can also be the best blade for mahogany which is where it really shines. I have been able to get 9" thick material cut to within .001" in thickness on all edges, with a surface that almost looks planed. But that's its only strength. Sucks for pretty much everything else.

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Count me in as "never again" for the Resaw King. I have two of them. I had Laguna sharpen one after it dulled. I got it back, reinstalled it, got the tension set and made some cuts. About ten minutes of total cutting time later, I heard that unsettling thumping coming from the blade. It had cracked halfway through. I removed it, repaired the crack (brazing, sanding smooth) and reinstalled it, with a lower tension than before. The next few cuts got less and less vertical. I looked at the blade and it had microscopic cracks around the entire length. What a piece of junk. I use a Powermatic 14" saw with riser, so a 3/4" blade it at the limit of its tension, with the spring fully compressed. Running at less than that tension, this blade disintegrated. The total cutting time was with days inbetween cuts, and no overheating or force feeding tropical hardwoods. My opinion is to look for a different blade and avoid the Resaw King.

Looking more and more like I'll only use them for quotidian stuff...

I've used the Woodmaster CT, 1", 1.3TPI for years. Someone mentioned a power feed. I have one on my 24" Laguna, and it does make a huge difference on accuracy and blade life. Because I sell sets, I sometimes resaw for many hours at a time, and I just could not live without a power feed. The Laguna saw itself is a great machine, but the electronics are junk. Over the years I've stripped all the safety electronics off it because Laguna did not have the parts, and now it is just a manual connect start and stop, which is all I need. Ceramic guides are great too. I have Carter guides on another saw and they are no where as good as the ceramic ones from Laguna. If you are in a position to get some woodworkers together to order in quantity, you can get some incredible price breaks from Don at http://www.toolmaster.com My 183" blades are nearly $200.00 each and when I got together with the local woodworker's guild and we ordered 20 blades, mix and match lengths, my blade cost went down to $135.00. Now that's what I call a price break! Tool master has price breaks at 5, 10, and the best at 20 pieces. They also have a ridiculous set shipping price of $7.95, and that included to us in Hawaii. How they pull that off, I don't know.If you are in it for the long run, buying more blades than you need right now will save you more $ than even the best interest on any investment, and it is sooooo nice to have new carbide blades on the shelf.

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Have to start with one and see how I like it first:)

Info on Toolmasters:

Effective January 1, 2016 – Toolmasters has sold off its two lines of business.

Information on the successor businesses can be found below.
The cutting tools division was sold to AS&T of Campbellsport, Wisconsin.

Contact information for AS&T is:
AS&T Inc

N110 County Rd W
Campbellsport, WI 53010
Phone: (262) 626-4410
Fax: (262) 626-4217

The drum sander division was sold to Sand-Rite Manufacturing of Chicago, IL.

Contact information for Sand-Rite is:
Sand-Rite Manufacturing
1517 W Carroll St.
Chicago, IL 60607
Phone : (312) 997-2200
Fax: (312) 997-2407
e-mail: info@sand-rite.com

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I have had Resaw Kings dull as a butter knife right out of the box, and only one that was sharp. I have one more that hasn't been used, but won't buy them again. Woodmaster CT for me from now on. I am going to try to resharpen my Laguna blades with a diamond stone on a dremel though.

Bob

I'll still get mine resharpened by a local place for daily use as a straight cut saw since I have 4 now, but I'll be getting a wood aster next time I need to shave bricks...

I have no experience with Woodmaster CT blades but the consensus is that it is dicey on a 14" saw.

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